St Mary’s Church, Kempley

St Mary’s Church was built in the early-12th century by one of the wealthiest early Norman families in England, the de Lacys. The church likely replaced an earlier Saxon church, and retains a simple Saxon layout. It consists of a square west tower with a peaked roof, nave, and a barrel-vaulted chancel.

Much of the church is original 12th-century Norman, including the nave roof, doors, some windows, chancel arch, and frescoes in the chancel. The many wall paintings in the nave date from between the 12th – 15th centuries, and the tower was added in the 13th century during Edward I’s wars in Wales. The timber-framed porch dates to the 14th century, which covers an original Norman door with original ironwork, and conceals a decorative tympanum above the door.

The pretty exterior of the church looks like many other Norman churches, however this simple Norman building is adorned with the most outstandingly complete and well-preserved medieval wall paintings in England. Those in the barrel-vaulted chancel, which is painted throughout, including the ceiling, are particularly rare, dating from the early-12th century, and are the most complete set of Romanesque frescoes in northern Europe. The paintings are a vivid reminder of a time when church interiors were covered in such paintings. They tell stories from the Bible, depict the lives of saints, and show terrifying visions of demons and eternal damnation.

St Mary’s also has some exceptionally ancient timbers, including the early-12th century nave roof, which was hidden above the 17th-century ceiling, making it the earliest and most complete Norman timber roof known in Britain. Also 12th-century Norman timber are the main entrance door under the porch and the door that leads into the tower.

Unfortunately, on my visit to St Mary’s access to the tower was temporarily closed so I couldn’t take pictures inside the tower. But inside the tower is an interesting 14th-century parish chest housed in the base of the tower.

St Mary’s is a fascinating church with many interesting and historic features, but the star of the show at this delightful Norman church is its superb wall paintings, especially the ones in the chancel. I’ve travelled all over the country and visited many fascinating churches with some excellent medieval paintings, but none come close to those inside St Mary’s.